Presidents of the Alpine Club (UK) | Revolvy
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The three porters had been there a few days, and were cold and miserable in the low cloud. Our 9 porters romped in and soon we had base camp up and running. The Russians returned that evening and dismantled their camp, disappointed that they had not reached the summit due to deep snow.
The next day was sunny and beautiful, and although it was supposed to be for rest and acclimatisation, three of us decided to carry loads up to the bottom of the gully above. When we got there, we could see the Russian fixed ropes up the cliffs above, so we went up for a look, eventually going up them and continuing to the snowy valley above, the proposed site of ABC at m.
I was up firstthen Gerry then Paddy, who was suddenly struggling with the altitude. Frank had stayed below to rest. In the morning Paddy was ill, and Gerry and I did another load carry to ABC with the porters, we put my tent up and came down.
Logbook | Colmcille Climbers
The next day was a rest day to try and give Paddy a chance, but his health continued to deteriorate BC Day 4. I was up first and put the kettle on for the others, but only Gerry arrived, telling me that Frank didnt feel he had the strength to make it.
Now there were 2. That evening I broke trail up the hill above ABC in soft snow to see if I could see a feasible route. Higher up, I ran into very deep snow, but could see a possible route to a col, from where the ridge looked do-able.
We needed to start early while the snow was frozen, that was it! Early start was 5. It was brutally cold and my hands were numb from trying to boil the kettle from lumps of ice. The tracks from the previous evening were much easier being frozen, but the deeper snow above had only the crust frozen, so we stood up on it, only for it to collapse, and then we had to climb out, pulling our feet out through the crust,only for it to collapse again.
My estimated time to the col of about an hour and a half was eaten up in a couple of hundred metres. Exhausted, we had to come up with a plan B.
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A traverse to the right would take us to a short climb to the top of the big rock tower which dominated our base camp. We felt that we could have a rethink, and try again tomorrow, but lets get something in the bag. The views were immense, but Phuletate still looked like, well anything but a foregone conclusion.
Care was required on the descent, but on reaching ABC we met Frank who was delighted and relieved to see us. He advised us that the porters were anxious to leave, but we had another day at ABC. Baseball Camp or other sun hat: Full protection with side covers or wrap around.
To be worn on summit day in the event of high winds.
Ladies' Alpine Club
Lightweight synthetic liner gloves: For wearing on a hot day. Shell glove with insulated liner: Large enough to fit a liner glove inside. To carry on the trek to base camp. Sleeping Bag for high camps: Goose down or synthetic. Sleeping Bag for base camp: For reducing volume of the sleeping bag, down parka, etc. Self inflating sleeping pad 1 for base camp and 1 for high camps: Full length is preferred.
Closed cell foam pad: To be used in conjunction with the inflating pad for warmth and comfort when sleeping.
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Trekking poles with snow baskets: A plastic 16 oz. A plastic bowl for eating dinner or breakfast out of Spoon: Plastic spoon lexan Headlamp: With 2 extra sets of new batteries Sunscreen: SPF 50 or better Lipscreen: SPF 30 or better 2 sticks.
Water bottle parkas 2: Or use Hot Tronics for food warmer system. Knife or multi tool optional.